I sat by the Trevi fountain trying to decide whether I would throw in a coin as you’re supposed to do and what I’d wish for if I did. A man who looked to be in his late 50’s climbed over the lip of the fountain and waded out into the middle. The tourists began laughing and clapping. He started shouting and took off his shirt. He withdrew a razorblade from his pocket, proceeded to unwrap it from its paper sheath, and he started slicing across his stomach. He didn’t cut very deep, but blood quickly began trickling down his front and into the water.
The tourists gasped a little each time he cut.
They kept making wishes though, throwing in their coins over their shoulders. They kept taking photos of one another too, some choosing to position themselves so the man stood in the middle of the fountain couldn’t be seen and others trying to make sure he was visible in the background.
He kept cutting and shouting, sometimes trying to phone someone using a cellphone he kept his pocket. He started gesturing at his wrists with the razorblade.
I wondered if he was going to kill himself, and whether anyone would move, and whether I would be brave enough to wade out into blood and coins and water and try to stop him bleeding his life out into the fountain. I felt sick.
The police arrived then, pushing the tourist crowds back. He climbed higher on the fountain, kept cutting and bleeding and shouting.
The tourists were now forced to throw their coins in from afar - from behind the police barrier. Some missed, the coins ricocheting and tinkling off the surrounding stone, while others had the skill to land them in the bloody water.
They kept eating ice-cream and making wishes and taking photos. They didn’t stop when the police started talking to him, when he stopped cutting himself, when they waded out to him, or when they eventually led him slowly to the side, a towel draped over his shoulders.
I wonder what they wished for.
I stood in the Colosseum a few hours later and watched a feral cat stalk through the grass in the remains of the arena below. Hunting mice, I suppose. It started to rain, the tourists laughing and going inside to seek cover, and the cat stopped and hugged up against a crumbling arena wall. I couldn’t see him after a while.
I left Rome. I didn’t make a wish.
International Sign Language
Me, in terrible Italian: <Hi. I’m just a tourist. Do you speak English?>
Shopkeeper: Ah, a little. Si.
Me: Do you have any razorblades? For shaving? <mimics shaving>
Shopkeeper: Ah! Si, si. <gestures at large selection of Mach 5’s, blades with moisturiser strips, etc.>
Me: No, um. Razorblades. Like, uh… <mimics shaving, then slitting wrists with same imaginary item>
Shopkeeper: Aaah! Si! Si! <gets some razorblades from behind the counter> €1.50!
Me: Thank you.
Shopkeeper: Enjoy!
